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Hunting for bonefish

October 22, 2012

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Kevin fishing the Flats.

The day could hardly have dawned with any less promise. After the achingly beautiful weather of the past few days, the grey skies that greeted me at breakfast were doubly disappointing. From the patio of our hotel on the southern shore of Anegada, I could see storm clouds massing over the distant water. I wondered […]

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It’s good to be back (+ the story of a frog)

April 1, 2012

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First of all, I’m back. After taking a few weeks (okay, months) off to wrap up my research on the 5th edition of Moon Virgin Islands (out this fall people!), I’m glad to be back to the blog. There are a lot of things I could write about today: the BVI Spring Regatta which wraps […]

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Tortola’s ‘Bird Sanctuary’ (and its only hostel)

November 21, 2011

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Night Heron

A hundred yards or so from Josiah’s Bay Beach, on the East End of Tortola, lies a slightly scruffy, nondescript property worth knowing about. The Near D Beach Hostel and Bird Sanctuary is a unique place: the only hostel I know of in the Virgin Islands, and a place to observe the myriad bird species […]

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Just another day on Norman Island

October 27, 2011

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sting ray

I love to visit the ‘out islands’ of the BVI: Norman, Cooper, Peter, Salt, Ginger, and the rest. There is something about crossing the water to another island that causes your worries to melt away. And with little more than a beach and a beach bar to entertain you, the day ahead is one of […]

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Off the beaten track: hiking at Shark Bay National Park

October 18, 2011

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bat cave

Shark Bay is one of the newest national parks in the British Virgin Islands and probably the least well-known. Declared in 1999, the 18.4 acre park on a headland just east of Brewer’s Bay, Tortola, is one of my favourite places to hike in the BVI. Shark Bay proper is a small, rocky, windswept bay […]

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The Story of the Boulders: Virgin Gorda’s Enchanting Baths National Park

October 9, 2011

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The Baths

War journalist Martha Gellhorn visited Virgin Gorda in 1942 as part of a Caribbean tour to assess World War II’s impact on the region. She observed that on this peaceful isle even the concept of war seemed unreal. Gellhorn spent an afternoon at the Baths and described it like this in her memoir, Travels With Myself […]

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Riding the coast: bike tour of St Croix

September 4, 2011

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biking on st croix

We get off to an early start; by 8:30 a.m. Troy and I are astride our mountain bikes and ready to go. Troy, a long-time St. Croix resident and experienced cyclist, is one of the regular guides at Freedom City Cycles, a bike shop in Frederiksted which rents bikes, leads tours and sells gear. The […]

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Atop St. Croix’s Maroon Ridge

August 30, 2011

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Ras Lumumba picked me up in his Rasta-colored 1970s Land Rover and we set off for a drive along back roads to a viewpoint overlooking the north coast of St Croix. We were going on a hike, along with his daughter and another friend, but first Lumumba, a naturalist and exceptional tour guide, wanted to […]

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The beauty of catch n keep

July 24, 2011

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Anyone who has ever bushwacked through the forest in the VI or, especially, had anything to do with land which has been cleared of trees, is probably well familiar with kasha, also known as catch n keep. Acacia riparia is a woody sprawler with lacy foliage that not only snags anything that comes its way (catch) […]

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